You may wonder if you have time or even if made to measure is for you, so here’s a guide to what’s involved in the made to measure process. This is the way I prefer to work, though it may be slightly different for other dressmakers.
After initial consultation of your design and wishes, where I ask plenty of questions including the areas you wish to disguise and areas wish to enhance, your fabric options, colour theme etc and checking all is possible including the timeframe, I take your measurements, over thin clothing i.e.: T shirt with jeans. Up to twenty measurements are taken according to the design, not just the very basic measurements of your bust, waist and hips. I will also note your height and bra cup size.
From this I am able to put measurements to paper in 2D to draft a personal pattern.
From this paper pattern, a toile is made. This is a precise fit of your shape in a light cotton fabric that can be drawn on with pencil style lines, and pinned and adjust as needed. Now, your first fitting; You will need your best fitting bra/underwear for this. We are checking for good curves, flat seams with smooth lines, and great fit. Sometimes it is a minute pinch here and there may be all that is needed
The bust area is often troublesome to fit. Either too loose in a small cup too low in a big cup or the underarm is too low. often it is a 1cm move, tuck or raise that will correct the fit . This includes the neckline depth and shape, depending on your size it is a matter of finding the most flattering for you. There is always an aesthetically pleasing eye to design and detail. The toile alterations are then converted back to the paper pattern, a new pattern is made then the fashion fabric is cut and seams sewn up.
This second fitting, we are checking, and maybe deciding on any extras.
For the third fitting, we can really see the garment taking shape. This is the last time to make an alteration and decide on decorative details.
At the fourth fitting, depending on the amount of detail, the sleeves belts etc will be in place. We have the overall picture. At this time, you should bring your shoes so the hem line can be measured. If you are losing weight and there is a few weeks to go, we can delay putting in the zip as this is the last chance to adjust the waist. Remember, every 7kilos jumps 5cm .
As this is a personal guide, there may be extra fittings, or for long distance clients, I will be aware of the measurements you give me and still save the back seam until last, with a little more seam allowance.
Hopefully you can now see how much attention to detail goes into a good fit, and why buying off the rail/from the internet can be such a lucky guess. Who cares what your dress size is,the only label I sew into the dress is my Awaywiththefaeries Fashion label!
I’m always happy for you to bring along your mum, sister or best friend, it makes it a fun process, and there is always laughter along the way.
This is an enjoyable process, and should be on every girls bucket list, if only the once!